Got my Sega Naomi audio amp in today and we have a green light… That’s a good thing right? Now I just need to put a load on it an see how it does.

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Copped this from the Neo-Geo forums.

Tutorial

first step, the amp

2, connect the transformer as shown in the pic.

3, connect this white, black, and green cables to the cable that comes out of the transformer.

4, this are the ends of the white, black, and green cables. Those ends need to be connected to your arcade PSU.

Today I needed to test the AMP, so I had to connect the white and the black cables to a regular AC plug to power the amp.

5, connect the Audio Left (white) and right (red) cables to the amp

6, and then to the PCB board

7, then connect the volume pot molex to the amp. (left hand side next to the audio plugs). volume pot not pictured, I forgot.

8, connect the audio left and right molex to the amp. (right hand side white and red molex)

9. there are 4 end cables from the 2 audio molex, 2 from the white molex (left audio) and 2 from the red molex (right audio) they need to be connected to your cab Stereo plug, in my case was the “F” molex in my Egret II. this one
picture of the cables and the molex:

this is a diagram of the Egret II connector (got the pic from some of Kernow post, thanks!)

and the ends of the red and white audio molex are as follow: WHITE (left audio) Grey is L+ and Orange is L-, and RED (right audio) Grey is R+ and Orange is R-

10, next thing you need to do is go to your ARcade pcb setting and set it to stereo, and make sure you put YOUR CAB in stero, (there should be a switch, at least mine has one switch for Mono and Stereo)

I think thats about it. Power on your cab, if the amp is connected to your cab PSU, it should turn on automatically and be ready to work. Hope it helps.

I just wanted to archive this incase is ever removed.

I finally got my PC to JAMMA converter tested. Next I will get it mounted on a proper piece of wood an clean up the wires. Here is a shot of it.

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Here is the parts list:

  • JAMMA Fingerboard (link)
  • MC Cthulhu from Godlike Controls (link)
  • UltraCade uVC Universal Video Converter (link)

Everything connects to a Dell Quad Core PC.

Here is a shot of everything running in 15khz on my Sega Astro City.

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I had a few spare Sega Dreamcasts around and decided it would be a good system to stick in my Sega Astro City due to the tate (vertical) games.

Needed:

  • 1 Sega Dreamcast
  • 2 Sega Dreamcast controllers
  • 1 JAMMA Fingerboard
  • 1 Sega Dreamcast to VGA adapter

I kind of lucked out since the VGA adapter I have is compatible to an easy hack to make it output 15khz for my M9 arcade monitor.

Here is the link for the Dreamcast VGA Adapter mod.

I was only going to use this VGA adapter for the Astro City so I decided not to install a switch to go back to 31khz. I just cut pin 6 (blue wire on my adapter) so it forces 16khz. You could just add a switch inline with pin 6 and then you can switch between 16khz and 31khz. This is handy if you want to use the adapter on a LCD TV also, which I do not recommend since the Sega Dreamcast does not look that great on a LCD.

To start this project off I call on a friend, Adam, to help out with the cabinet and to kill some beer. he was successful with both tasks. We wanted to do a quick “proof of concept” and just get the video working to see how it looked.

  • I took the Dreamcast VGA converted and cut pin 6.
  • Took a VGA  cable and cut one end off so I can soldier it to the JAMMA fingerboard.

More to come…

Wanted to start this project and I need to make a few notes on the subject. First let me get the parts list out of the way.

1 Sega Saturn
2 Sega Saturn controllers

Circuit for getting Composite Sync:

1 JAMMA Fingerbord
1 8 pin chip socket
1 LM1881N
2 0.1uf Capacitors
1 680K ohm resistor